A pioneering woman winemaker is making extraordinary Biodynamic wine in Glen Ellen
The Benziger Family Wines estate in Glen Ellen tells a tale of resilience, innovation, and deep respect for the earth.
The vineyard, birthed in the 1870s, has weathered numerous trials, from the phylloxera devastation in the 1890s, the 1906 earthquake, and the prohibition era, resulting in abandonment for over 40 years.
In 1970, the hippie Dr. Flynn purchased the property, planting cabernet and cannabis, starting a small commune. The property was in disrepair until 1980, when Mike Benziger discovered it. With financial help from his father, Mike acquired the property and launched Glen Ellen Winery. He later sold the Glen Ellen brand, retaining the Benziger brand.
Today, Benziger Family Wines is owned by The Wine Group, America's second-largest wine company. Nate Reynes, the Benziger tour program manager, says, "They leave us alone. It's like having a rich uncle. If we need something, they'll buy it for us if we can prove it will improve quality. We have a lot of people who have been here for 20, 30 years. It's still a family."
Nestled against Sonoma Mountain, an extinct volcano, the Benziger estate showcases unique topography. The well-drained volcanic soils provide a perfect base for grape growing. The estate is divided into 31 flavor blocks, separately harvested, offering the winemaker a flavor diversity.
Lisa Amaroli, Director of Winemaking, joined Benziger when it was still a boys' club. "I was assisting in making our commercial brand, our nationally distributed wine," she recalls. "And once that winemaker left, I was promoted to winemaker in 2008.“
Lisa advises newcomers in the wine industry to stay open, work hard, and choose battles wisely. "Remain curious," she suggests. "Don't get in a state where you stop learning."
Lisa says to critics of Biodynamic practices, "We're cultivating life. Each cow horn filled with fresh manure and spray of rich hummus on the vineyard floor adds to a grand symphony of nature."
Nate agrees with Lisa on Biodynamic farming. "Biodynamics is not a newfangled trend," Nate explains, "It's a rekindling of ancient practices utilized by rural societies millennia ago. We're investing in replenishing the land's biological capital."
In terms of favorite wines, Lisa finds it challenging to choose. "There's artistry in crafting every wine, and each offers a unique expression of the land it comes from," she says.
Despite her affection for all their wines, Lisa has a soft spot for their Sonoma coast vineyards, where they produce Biodynamic pinot noir and chardonnay.
They've implemented safety measures to face challenges like climate change and its impacts on farmworkers. “We have rules and procedures around all that,” Lisa says, referring to their actions to protect workers from heatstroke. They are also learning new ways to protect the grapes in an increasingly hot climate, like strategically placed shade cloth.
The Benziger estate is a testament to the harmonious relationship between the land, the vines, and the people who nurture them. "I adore this wine. I love making this wine. It's just such a reflection of this beautiful vineyard," Lisa says.
