Sonoma County wine legacy has roots in Sonoma

As the summer season continues, Sonoma County wineries are one of the most desired destinations, as tourism to the area continues to rise in popularity. But did you know Sonoma wineries have a long history that goes back to the start of California's wine industry? While the award-winning wineries of Napa County have a rich tradition and history, Sonoma County also has some of the oldest wineries in the region. The Gundlach Bundschu Winery, established in 1858, is the oldest family-run winery, and the Buena Vista Winery, founded in 1857, is recognized as the oldest commercial winery in Sonoma County.

However, wine in Sonoma County goes back decades before the first vine was harvested at these historic wineries. The county’s climate and land have always been bountiful, having supported the indigenous tribes of the Miwok and Pomo and other Native cultures for thousands of years. When the first Europeans arrived, they began cultivating grapes almost immediately. The initial efforts to produce wine took place in a far more challenging climate than the lush, green Sonoma Valley. Instead, the first grapes cultivated for wine were at Fort Ross by Russian fur traders and the indigenous Kashaya Pomo tribe.

The outpost began in 1812 as a fur trading hub as part of the larger Alaskan fur trade. While nothing remains of those original vineyards, The region is categorized as the Fort Ross-Seaview American Viticulture Area and became officially recognized in 2012.

The Franciscan missionaries at Mission San Francisco De Solano in Sonoma would also plant grapes, and their cultivation would expand gradually, thanks to the labor of the local native tribes. The first operational commercial winery was called Buena Vista and was founded by a Hungarian immigrant named Agostan Haraszthy. Widely considered the “father of California wine.” The newly formed California state government even commissioned him to study wine production and the economic potential for its production.

Agostan traveled to Europe to learn more and brought thousands of vine cuttings as he pursued his winery aspirations. However, recent research by historians has uncovered records that older vineyards had been planted by a Native man named Viviano. Records of a land grant for wine production dating to the 1830s have been found, making Viviano the first independent wine grower in the region.

It’s important to consider that European regions dominated the wine industry in this period. Wine was already considered an ancient art and craft by the time of the Roman Empire, and as mass-scale industrial farming evolved in the 19th century, so did European wine producers. Bourbon and beer were much more prominent in the United States back then. However, Agostan Haraszthy believed that high-quality, luxury wines could be produced state-side and saw this area as the perfect place to pursue that goal.

The wine industry in Sonoma County continued to grow, and by the late 19th century, there were about 120 wineries in the county. The arrival of Italian immigrants and other Europeans with a strong wine-making tradition helped spur this growth. Popular marquee brands of today, like Korbel and Sebastiani, also arrived just after the turn of the century, and the area had become one of the largest wine-producing regions in the country. However, Prohibition would severely harm wine production, with few of the once-thriving wineries surviving. The county’s favorable climate and fertile soil led to many vineyards being uprooted and replaced by different crops.

After the repeal of Prohibition in 1933, the wine industry slowly returned to operation, but it mainly remained dormant for decades. It wouldn’t be until the 1970s that the Wine Country as we know it came to be.

As locals and visitors continue to enjoy Sonoma County's award-winning wines and immerse themselves in the beauty of its picturesque vineyards, it's a great opportunity to acknowledge the county’s rich wine-making history and legacy.

The pioneering spirit of individuals like Viviano and Agostan Haraszthy serves as a reminder of the tenacity and passion that went into cultivating the flourishing wine culture we see today. As the demand for the region's excellent wines continues to rise, Sonoma County along with neighboring Napa, stands at the forefront of the global wine industry. Its favorable climate, coupled with the expertise of dedicated winemakers and the traditions passed down through generations, ensure that the future of the region’s wine industry remains bright and promising.