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Cotati’s Karah Estate Vineyards steeped in history, art and excellence

Karah Estate Vineyard is located on the peak of the hill right off of Highway 101 in Cotati at 1010 West Railroad Ave. In 1995, Mohamed (nicknamed Michael) Karah purchased the 144 acres in the rolling hills that separate Petaluma and Cotati. UC Davis advised the family to grow grapes based on the terroir (the complete natural environment in which a particular wine is produced) and climate. He had previous experience growing grapes because in his youth, he grew table grapes in Libya. Michael’s intention was to perfect his viticulture skills and to grow Pinot Noir grapes of the highest quality. For years he sold his grapes on the market until he made the bold decision to build his own winery. His contractor son, Tariq Karah, was instrumental in the expansion and conversion of the cattle barn into what became the wine cellar.

Years before Karah Estate Vineyards existed, the property was utilized by the famous environmental artists, Christo and Jeanne-Claude. They constructed a piece of art named the “Running Fence.” Accounts of the project indicate it was a Herculean task that included agreements with 60 landowners and lessees, environmental impact concerns, an array of permits, design review, and five months of construction. The fence was 18 feet high, 24.5-miles long, 240,000 square yards of white nylon fabric, 90 miles of steel cable, 2,050 steel poles, 350,000 hooks and 13,000 anchors. It stretched from what is now Karah Estate Vineyards into the Pacific Ocean at Bodega Bay. From its inception, the project was 4 years in the making and completed on Sept. 10, 1976. There were an estimated 2 million visitors who viewed the fence before it was taken down two weeks after completion.

Karah Estate Vineyard’s land is in an area called The Petaluma Gap, which was designated an American Viticultural Area (AVA) on Dec. 7, 2017. The designation is based on wind patterns. Throughout the day, there are variable weather conditions including: heavy fog in the morning, sunshine after around 11 a.m., high-speed winds late afternoon, and thick evening fog. These weather factors result in long, slow, and cool growing seasons. The combination creates the perfect conditions for their pinot noir, chardonnay and chenin blanc vines. Heavy winds force pinot berries to develop thick skins. The vineyard’s website explains the advantage “Thick skins have a high concentration of phenols, including anthocyanins, which give rise to bold spicy flavor profiles and deep color extraction.” Pinot grapes normally are known for their thin skins and tight clusters making them susceptible to rot, fungus and temperature fluctuations. They are considered so high-maintenance that they are sometimes referred to as “the heartbreak grape.”

The vineyard was originally named Windy Hill Winery and later changed to Karah Estate Vineyards. From their 40 acres of vines, they produce 3,500 to 5,000 cases a year. The wine ranges in price from $12 to $30. There are a variety of tasting menus available for a fee of $20, which is waved if you buy two bottles. A short walking tour is also available on Saturdays by appointment in which a tour guide brings customers to several sections of the vineyard so they can see what the grapes in the wine they are tasting look like.

In addition to the tastings, they offer additional activities for their customers on Saturday afternoons after 1 p.m. There are trivia contests for adults with wine as the prize. Kevin is an employee who leads kite flying, interactive games and trivia games for kids. On Saturdays from 4 to 5 p.m., it is Yappy Hour which entitles customers to bring their dog for a treat and have a glass of wine for $5. Dog friendly tours through the vineyards are also available.

Lynne Morin, the hospitality and tasting room manager, said they pride themselves on their friendly staff. They get a lot of traffic from Hwy 101 because they are visible from the freeway. She estimates their clientele is half tourists and half locals. Tasting room customers are often on the younger side, usually in their 20s and 30s, and since it is so close-by, many of them are Sonoma State University students.

Marilyn Lane is a Sonoma County resident who worked as a newsroom employee at The Press Democrat for 27 years.

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