We RATE Potstickers of 46 Chinese Restaurants in Sonoma County
By Peter Posert
The aroma will make you salivate. The smell is a little acrid, salty, and somehow all mouthwatering umami; it’s cooked soy sauce. The table is worn formica, mostly clean from being wiped1000 times, but it is not totally clean, either. Red placemats with the Chinese zodiac lay in front of everyone: “Who should rats like?” “I don’t like horses?” We wait. We laugh a bit. We tell stories. Mostly though, we wait…
We are at China Chef in Cotati, one of the most iconic Chinese restaurants in Sonoma County:The lights haven’t been turned on in the daytime in decades, the wall practically ooze an amalgam of steam, dried soy and dust, the staff is very friendly, the aroma is typical, and the pot stickers at China Chef are very very good. China Chef’s pot stickers score 8.33 out of 10! We score all the restaurants’ pot stickers (see web below)
Funny little places, our Sonoma County Chinese restaurants. Each one is so very different. These businesses sit out in the strip malls by the nail salons or karate studios or massage parlors and pharmacies at the edges of our towns and cuisine consciousness. They support a family or two, maybe more, and we just take them for granted. But come lunchtime when you forgot your sandwich or Friday night when you just don’t want to cook and they shine, fulfilling a little culinary niche with personal flair and quiet dedication to our community. For us, pot stickers are the defining menu item for quality…
Potstickers can be made in typically two ways, with our without much cabbage. There are five things that are incontrovertible to us as ingredients though, to make a truly sublime experience: 1. Pork 2. Cabbage 3. Ginger 4. Crispy bottom shell 5. Some other stuff that probably includes garlic, onion, and a little pepper.
The first three have to be in perfect balance to create a great pot sticker. Sadly, most are not in balance. The Shell? It just has to be right, crispy on the bottom and fully cooked and soft on top. It’s the other stuff that makes pot stickers fun. Maybe this one has wood ears? Could this be a hunk of water chestnut? That’s a lot of garlic in here.
Usually, there is just way too much pork in our local restaurant’s pot stickers. When they are heavy on the pork, they are also heavy on the palate (and the tummy) and uninteresting. Often, there isn’t enough cabbage, and even when that is correct, if Chef overcooks the dish, then the pungent over-cooked cabbage ruins the whole thing. Underutilization of ginger is acutely the most common crisis. Without it, one gets the weight from the meat and cabbage, but there isn’t any lightness, any air. Ginger elevates pot stickers - you almost can’t have too much.
Go to your local Chinese restaurant and support them!
Let them thrive. When a community loses its local independent Chinese restaurant, it’s like losing your local wine shop or butcher or cheesemonger or hobby store. The neighborhood is diminished. With so many new choices for our entertainment and cuisine dollars, it can be easy to forget about the local, cheap, greasy spoon Chinese place out in the strip mall by the chain pharmacy. Don’t lose any more of them. There are only 46 left.
Pot Sticker tasting. Give it a try sometime, just for kicks.
The Scores
9.90 ~ China Bowl Bistro
BEST Pot Sticker In Sonoma County 1940 Piner Rd, Santa Rosa (707) 570-0688 “China Bowl Bistro” is one of the most unassuming fine dining restaurant names I’ve ever heard in my life, in one of the most unassuming places in a quiet, totally out of the way little strip on Piner in Northwest Santa Rosa. One would think it’s just rice bowls with some food on top, but oh no no no, don’t let the name fool you, this is the premier destination for outstanding, fresh, beautifully cooked pot stickers in Sonoma County. The decor is pretty, with little Asian umbrellas on the ceiling that must only be there to hold down your elated spirits from the great food, or maybe it is like the head covering in orthodox societies that hold that covering on top is an offering to god. Whatever the umbrellas’ purpose, it works at China Bowl Bistro. The Pot Stickers arrive in due time, perfectly crispy on the bottom and floating on a bed of cabbage. The pot stickers are fabulously moist and juicy (how? I don’t know) featuring rich pork, mild cabbage and ebullient ginger that are in perfect balance with just a hint of white pepper lingering on the finish. The effect is sublime, leaving you fulfilled yet wanting, in the immortal words of Billy Idol, “…More, More, More.” China Bowl Bistro. Check it out.