The Altamont Lives! An Occidental, California Classic Revived
In the west county village of Occidental, the historic Altamont has long been a memorable local landmark. Initially known as Summit House, it was constructed in 1876 as a 29-room hotel to coincide with the arrival of the railroad—one of the earliest businesses in town. For decades it stood empty, even in vacancy, remaining a picturesque Main Street sight, with its colorfully tiled front steps, high balcony, and large split pane windows, patiently waiting for the right team to give it new life.
At last its day has come! Freshly renovated, it is once more open for business, thanks to the irrepressible vision of local entrepreneurs, Jenay and Andzia Hofftin. The couple are the former owners of the Lotus Feed Retreat which featured a popular all-vegetarian menu. Their new venture, the Altamont General Store, offers a more omnivorous selection. The menu, likewise carefully hand-designed, features a rotating selection of highest quality meats, sandwiches, bowls, seasonal sides, grab-and-go lunches, and local wine and beer, with Straus soft serve or an artisanal pastry for dessert—something to please every palate.
Shop: www.altamontgeneralstore.com/menu
The Hofftins are avid farmers, incorporating much of their own produce into their recipes. Though neither is a formally trained chef, both have years of experience, and it shows; these are food people through and through, with a deft touch when it comes to the intricacies of flavor and texture. While Jenay is a fifth generation Occidental native, Andzia spent years in Hawaii, and the influences of each are evident. The kalua pork, for instance, is kiawe smoked—a classic big island method.
The rotisserie chicken is a popular go-to, available as a half, a whole, in a sandwich melt or a bowl with rice and toppings. Vegetarians will enjoy the mushroom melt with gruyere and kraut and the impossibly realistic beyond beef hot dog. The latter comes topped with pickled mustard seed and green tomato relish, yuzu aioli, and crispy shallots on a pillowy brioche bun. The trick is to harvest the tomatoes before they’re ripe, I’m told; each vibrant pickled topping is crafted by their ferment chef, Tasha, through a process called lacto-fermentation.
Delightfully unique baked goods are made fresh daily by in-house pastry chef, Chelsea Shapouri. Galettes of sweet spiced fruit or savory cheese and herb, hand pies, and olive oil fig cake with maple frosting, to name a few. For those with food sensitivities, she places an emphasis on gluten-free options, made with her own innovative signature flour blend.
The concept for the space had been in the works for some time; four years ago now the idea was born — that of an all-inclusive, mixed-use marketplace, where west county folks of all stripes could eat, gather, learn, and create — a goal that has been somewhat hindered by the COVID-19 pandemic. Slated to open in March, the date was pushed further and further back as widespread lock-down continued and the summer wildfires raged. Yet despite complications, the place is undeniably thriving. Indeed, as I chat with the Hofftins, they can hardly catch a free moment as visitors form a line that nearly reaches the door.
Though the building boasts ample space for indoor dining, orders must be taken to go for now, or enjoyed outside at one of the four tables — which seem often to be full. And, on reflection, that’s hardly surprising; in such uncertain times, we could all use a meal like this.
